I am going to replace a lot of the purfling on the back I'm making. The model has thin edges, and a thick center strip, and the thin edge combined with short purfling didn't work. When it starts getting thin it looks shabby, even if it is still there. The belly must have had a taller piece of purfling, and it was stuck in the groove within a mm or two, and not .5 mm, and I stayed somewhat further from the purfling when bringing the recurve in, and I may have cut the back a couple tenths of a mm thinner.
The bottom line is: the belly looks ok, but the back needs some TLC.
Cutting the groove back into where it was glued, and may still be glued in is no picnic; but I see no way out. NOt all of it will need to go, but much of it will. I am thinking of making my own purfling. I've thought of doing it with thin strips of wood, that aren't glued together. I've done that, and it works fine. But I think it may work better to glue the strips together in the groove, using fish glue, or casein; and then pulling them out, and re-gluing like normal purfling. The hardest part of loose strips are the corners.
Well, I have work to do.
Sunday, July 13, 2014
Saturday, July 5, 2014
How Long Does It Take
I'm always asked how long it takes to make a violin. I don't know. It doesn't take as long as you would think. I'm getting faster, but I never kept track of time; it's a lot of bother, and I'm not trying to figure out how much an hour I'm making on them.
The violin I'm making for the VSA was going along fine. Then the back curled up on the ends like a potato chip! The wood had crazy grain, and I was using water on it to make the planing easier. I tried to flatten it out by getting it wet and clamping it to a board. That didn't work. The next day I took it off. It looked somewhat better, but flexing it I heard popping noises; it was pulling away at the center seam, I ended up with a 2 mm wide gap on the bottom third of it.
I split it and re-joined it. I glued it up. Both of those were not easy to do. Then I noticed that the button was about 2 mm off center, and naturally it was off on the side that was cut about 3 mm closer to the centerline. I can't use it for this; maybe for something else, but not for a competition. The new one I made has a lower arch, and a higher tap tone, so maybe it was the one I was meant to use.
Our grandkids, and daughter, and son in law were coming up, so I knew I wouldn't have time to work on it. I had another back glued up, and started on it. I kept track of time and I got it down to the same weight (130g) as the other was when it conked out on me in 9 hours. In 3 more hours I had it ready to clean up the outline, and put in the purfling groove. So 12 hours to get it semi-finished and at 112 grams. Is that a decent time? I don't know.
Today I wanted to get the groves in. I haven't made the fixture for the rotary tool yet (I need to get an 18 mm tap), so it is a job for a marker and a knife. I used my magnifier, and it made a big difference. I don't see anything that looks terrible, I'll know more when I get the purfling glued in. I found a thin flat file that works well for flattening and trimming the groove to size. It took 2 hours a plate to get them done. Is that a decent time? I don't know.
I do know that 4 hours of knife time gets my hands sore!
The violin I'm making for the VSA was going along fine. Then the back curled up on the ends like a potato chip! The wood had crazy grain, and I was using water on it to make the planing easier. I tried to flatten it out by getting it wet and clamping it to a board. That didn't work. The next day I took it off. It looked somewhat better, but flexing it I heard popping noises; it was pulling away at the center seam, I ended up with a 2 mm wide gap on the bottom third of it.
I split it and re-joined it. I glued it up. Both of those were not easy to do. Then I noticed that the button was about 2 mm off center, and naturally it was off on the side that was cut about 3 mm closer to the centerline. I can't use it for this; maybe for something else, but not for a competition. The new one I made has a lower arch, and a higher tap tone, so maybe it was the one I was meant to use.
Our grandkids, and daughter, and son in law were coming up, so I knew I wouldn't have time to work on it. I had another back glued up, and started on it. I kept track of time and I got it down to the same weight (130g) as the other was when it conked out on me in 9 hours. In 3 more hours I had it ready to clean up the outline, and put in the purfling groove. So 12 hours to get it semi-finished and at 112 grams. Is that a decent time? I don't know.
Today I wanted to get the groves in. I haven't made the fixture for the rotary tool yet (I need to get an 18 mm tap), so it is a job for a marker and a knife. I used my magnifier, and it made a big difference. I don't see anything that looks terrible, I'll know more when I get the purfling glued in. I found a thin flat file that works well for flattening and trimming the groove to size. It took 2 hours a plate to get them done. Is that a decent time? I don't know.
I do know that 4 hours of knife time gets my hands sore!
Saturday, June 14, 2014
Sap Pocket
I am making a violin for the VSA Competition. I was going to go to Arizona this year, but our daughter is coming up here in a couple of weeks, so my wife asked if there was somewhere else to go. When we found out the VSA was in September and not December, she asked why not do that one. I shouldn't have any problem getting it finished. The ribs are done. The back and belly are roughed in. The neck and scroll are almost finished. The wood is really cool, and the archings seem to be really strong.
I ran into a sap pocket on the inside of the belly. I thought that maybe it would be either right where the f hole would be cut, or somewhere that it wouldn't be right on the edge of it. I lucked out. It is right under the upper wing.
I took a few pictures of it but I can't figure out how to get close ups with this camera, and they are all blurry. This is it after cutting it open to fit a patch. I cut a piece of spruce tall enough so I could hold on to something to fit it.
It doesn't take long scraping with a knife, and checking with chalk, before it is ready to glue in place. I saw of the excess, and trim it down to leave it only a few mm's proud of the surface.
I finally found that I could shoot through the magnifier, and it worked pretty good. This morning I trimmed it down, and it came out half way decent; almost like a trained professional. I tried to take some photos through the magnifier again, and most of the didn't work! What is a good camera, that takes good macro photos? Anyway, here is the finished patch.
The long arch is almost finished. Most of the stock is in the recurve and the edges.
I ran into a sap pocket on the inside of the belly. I thought that maybe it would be either right where the f hole would be cut, or somewhere that it wouldn't be right on the edge of it. I lucked out. It is right under the upper wing.
I took a few pictures of it but I can't figure out how to get close ups with this camera, and they are all blurry. This is it after cutting it open to fit a patch. I cut a piece of spruce tall enough so I could hold on to something to fit it.
It doesn't take long scraping with a knife, and checking with chalk, before it is ready to glue in place. I saw of the excess, and trim it down to leave it only a few mm's proud of the surface.
I finally found that I could shoot through the magnifier, and it worked pretty good. This morning I trimmed it down, and it came out half way decent; almost like a trained professional. I tried to take some photos through the magnifier again, and most of the didn't work! What is a good camera, that takes good macro photos? Anyway, here is the finished patch.
The long arch is almost finished. Most of the stock is in the recurve and the edges.
Thursday, May 15, 2014
Gluing the back halves
I sometimes glued the backs without clamping, just like I glue the bellies; with a rub joint. I've tried to do a glue up on the workmate, but it never lined up right. I figured I give it a go on this back to try it out.
The wood was very temperamental. I had no luck at all with my craftsman jointer. I would keep adjusting the blade down, and when it finally just started to touch, it would grab and dig in. My little brass finger plane, with the bevel up is an amazing tool. It will cut anything. It did fine on high spots, but for smoothing, this one I bought from Japan Woodworker is a charm. No bounce, no chatter, no digging in. I worked from the center out, because that's what it seemed it wanted, but it worked.
I drew the outline with a pencil around the ribs, to see how the grain fits on, and to check the location of the knot. Should be fine.
The wood was very temperamental. I had no luck at all with my craftsman jointer. I would keep adjusting the blade down, and when it finally just started to touch, it would grab and dig in. My little brass finger plane, with the bevel up is an amazing tool. It will cut anything. It did fine on high spots, but for smoothing, this one I bought from Japan Woodworker is a charm. No bounce, no chatter, no digging in. I worked from the center out, because that's what it seemed it wanted, but it worked.
I drew the outline with a pencil around the ribs, to see how the grain fits on, and to check the location of the knot. Should be fine.
Tuesday, April 29, 2014
What a mould needs
I've had some problems. Nothing earth shattering, but they've really slowed things down. They are all related to the mould. The biggest problem is gluing the blocks. I've usually solved them by gluing pieces on the top of the mould on to the sides of the blocks on both sides. It works good. That is what I did on the Montagnana mould from the start. It keeps the block from rocking at all. The del Gesu didn't have it, and it had plywood pieces that I glued in as a gluing surface for the blocks.
Bad idea number one.
While gluing on the first c-bout the block broke off. It didn't break off at the glue line, the plywood delaminated! That put a halt on that for a while. Then it happened again on another block. So I peeled the plywood off and used some scrap pieces of wood. Then I re-glued the blocks. I had one small piece of rosewood or something, and the glue didn't stick to the block with that the first time while trying the glue the c-bouts again. More delays. Then a piece of 1/8" hardboard that I used to get the spacing right split in half just like the plywood did! I finally got the c-bouts glued.
Now the other one is fine right? Sort of. The c-bouts glued nicely. The lower bouts glued nicely, and the seam at the bottom looked OK. I started working on the upper bouts. To hold it in the vice I put a piece of wood on each side of the mould, so the vice wouldn't hit the ribs. I didn't have squared up pieces of wood, they were wedged, and while twisting the rods to tighten the twine, the mold shifted in the vise, and one of the lower ribs cracked. Now I have to make up another rib.
Bad idea number two.
You can see the stock for the replacement rib under the del Gesu mould in the other photo.
I am going to square up, or cut up some dimensioned wood to use as vice spacers. Besides that, I will screw them together through the hole that is near the upper, and lower blocks. Then there will be no possibility of the blocks shifting.
A lot of problems for just gluing up a rib cage.
Don't use wedges like this as spacers in your vise!
Bad idea number one.
While gluing on the first c-bout the block broke off. It didn't break off at the glue line, the plywood delaminated! That put a halt on that for a while. Then it happened again on another block. So I peeled the plywood off and used some scrap pieces of wood. Then I re-glued the blocks. I had one small piece of rosewood or something, and the glue didn't stick to the block with that the first time while trying the glue the c-bouts again. More delays. Then a piece of 1/8" hardboard that I used to get the spacing right split in half just like the plywood did! I finally got the c-bouts glued.
Now the other one is fine right? Sort of. The c-bouts glued nicely. The lower bouts glued nicely, and the seam at the bottom looked OK. I started working on the upper bouts. To hold it in the vice I put a piece of wood on each side of the mould, so the vice wouldn't hit the ribs. I didn't have squared up pieces of wood, they were wedged, and while twisting the rods to tighten the twine, the mold shifted in the vise, and one of the lower ribs cracked. Now I have to make up another rib.
Bad idea number two.
You can see the stock for the replacement rib under the del Gesu mould in the other photo.
I am going to square up, or cut up some dimensioned wood to use as vice spacers. Besides that, I will screw them together through the hole that is near the upper, and lower blocks. Then there will be no possibility of the blocks shifting.
A lot of problems for just gluing up a rib cage.
Don't use wedges like this as spacers in your vise!
Sunday, April 13, 2014
Organization
I have the workbench areas organized now. I still need to figure out how to handle drawings better, and storing moulds too, but it's not too bad. This morning I cut some 3/4" dowel into 10 mm or so slices, and put them in the dog holes. I didn't like the idea of the chips and dust falling right on the cabinet top.
I'm using that area to store whatever I'm working on at the moment, and my calipers, little clamps for linings and stuff, and a tray with sharpening stones. Things I might need while working. Also the brush to sweep the bench off with. I don't mind sweeping the floor, but I don't want that area on the bench getting full of chips.
I have the drawers set up with things I use the most. Top drawer: gouges, I use the 3 on the right (old chisels) and the 1" incannel (2nd from the left) more than any others. The left one is a very useful scraper.
Next down are the chisels, scrapers, scale, and a few other things.
Next drawer has my files, knives, and trusty chain. I like to keep it on the little piece of plastic so it doesn't get lost.
The bottom drawer has my little planes, and some other stuff. I plan on making a scrub plane, and a cello sized version of the nice Lie Nielson plane I do most of my roughing with.
I wanted everything I might need close by, so I hung my saws, drill, and hammer on the sides:
We bought a shelving unit yesterday to store wood on. I have the cello wood on the second shelf, block wood, and miscellaneous pieces on the top, mostly viola backs and ribstock on the next one down, and stock that could be used for necks on the almost empty one. Nothing for violins and no spruce at all.
Moving the block wood and other pieces from my other bench freed it up; it was really jam packed. I have boxes that can house the wood for a violin or viola, and stock for fingerboards and fittings, and clamps and things for gluing up the ribcages. Now I can pull the boxes out easily. Right now there are 3 violins, and 2 violas in the boxes. The bench is used for glueing blocks on the moulds to keep them flat, for varnishing, and the plans are under the glass for referral.
Now, can I keep it like that?
I'm using that area to store whatever I'm working on at the moment, and my calipers, little clamps for linings and stuff, and a tray with sharpening stones. Things I might need while working. Also the brush to sweep the bench off with. I don't mind sweeping the floor, but I don't want that area on the bench getting full of chips.
I have the drawers set up with things I use the most. Top drawer: gouges, I use the 3 on the right (old chisels) and the 1" incannel (2nd from the left) more than any others. The left one is a very useful scraper.
Next down are the chisels, scrapers, scale, and a few other things.
Next drawer has my files, knives, and trusty chain. I like to keep it on the little piece of plastic so it doesn't get lost.
The bottom drawer has my little planes, and some other stuff. I plan on making a scrub plane, and a cello sized version of the nice Lie Nielson plane I do most of my roughing with.
I wanted everything I might need close by, so I hung my saws, drill, and hammer on the sides:
We bought a shelving unit yesterday to store wood on. I have the cello wood on the second shelf, block wood, and miscellaneous pieces on the top, mostly viola backs and ribstock on the next one down, and stock that could be used for necks on the almost empty one. Nothing for violins and no spruce at all.
Moving the block wood and other pieces from my other bench freed it up; it was really jam packed. I have boxes that can house the wood for a violin or viola, and stock for fingerboards and fittings, and clamps and things for gluing up the ribcages. Now I can pull the boxes out easily. Right now there are 3 violins, and 2 violas in the boxes. The bench is used for glueing blocks on the moulds to keep them flat, for varnishing, and the plans are under the glass for referral.
Now, can I keep it like that?
Saturday, April 5, 2014
New Workbench
We picked up the new workbench on Wednesday. A few screws, and some glue and it is done. The workmate can still be used for using the thicknessing punch that is clamped to it now, or the thickness gauge, or maybe something else. Here is the before:
I bought some cork covered foam board to make up drawer liners to keep the tools organized in the drawers, and keep them from banging around when the drawers are open. I have the black rubbery stuff in my machinist box, but I've never been that impressed by it. When I finish up a drawer I give you a peek. Anyway, here is what it looks like now:
The cello wood fits nicely on it, with room for a violin on the other end. I don't know what, if anything people put on their benches. Any ideas? I know you don't want something that makes a coating that can peel or wear; but what about oil, or something? It will probably take a few days to figure out how I want things set up, and I might change my mind, but it shouldn't be too long before I start working on it.
I bought some cork covered foam board to make up drawer liners to keep the tools organized in the drawers, and keep them from banging around when the drawers are open. I have the black rubbery stuff in my machinist box, but I've never been that impressed by it. When I finish up a drawer I give you a peek. Anyway, here is what it looks like now:
The cello wood fits nicely on it, with room for a violin on the other end. I don't know what, if anything people put on their benches. Any ideas? I know you don't want something that makes a coating that can peel or wear; but what about oil, or something? It will probably take a few days to figure out how I want things set up, and I might change my mind, but it shouldn't be too long before I start working on it.
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