I got a saw tooth setter for Christmas, so I sharpened up my rip saw I got a garage sale, and put it to use. The first try had a negative rake on the teeth, and the blade just skipped. I filed it back to perpendicular, and it works better. It still does not have the same nice feel that a Japanese Ryoba does; but I got through it.
The blade probably isn't sharpened right. I heard a couple teeth sound like they cracked, and sure enough I'm missing one. There were already two where it looks like an automatic sharpener slipped, and cut into the tooth on the top.
After about 3 hours I had it cut 3/4 of the way through, and extended the cut around to the other end, to work at it from that end. At least the cut is straight! The Ryobas I've used never seem to have enough set to cut through a wide board. Two or three inches is fine; but get to five of six, and it is a problem. This one cut straight, but is just not nearly aggressive enough.
Ten minutes, and it is only down this far. It took 45 minutes to free it up.
I've thought about buying the frame saw from Highland Woodworker http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/classic400framesawwithturbocutblade.aspx
I already have the narrow blade. I could use it to cut out the cello plates. I doubt my coping saw is up to the task. I don't know how the wide blade would be for rip cuts, and it would only have about 3-4 inches of travel. It also has 15 teeth per inch, so I'd probably be cutting sawdust.
OK, I've just thought of something. Was that a real rip cut? I know it was with the grain, but it was across the grain as well, as I cut across the quartered wood. The blade has 5 teeth per inch, but doesn't feel aggressive at all; you have to push it.
Any suggestions?
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