Well, the violin is done. Am I happy with it? No, not entirely. Some parts I like. My fittings are decent, I think. It could be a dumb thing to make ones own fittings, but if you can do it with finess, you might be able to pull it off; otherwise it is a distraction. My archings are decent. I think that is one thing that I can actually do right. The wood looks cool, but even though some parts of the varnish look cool, I'm not entirely pleased. Maybe the varnish needs to be just a tiny bit more flowing? Maybe I'll see Joe, he says he has a new flow enhancer.
The sound seems good. I don't play, I really should learn, at least a little. I can make lots of noise, and I get a feel for the instrument that way. The other Montagnana I have strung up with Dominant lights. It has a reliable, clear, simple sound. To me it sounds like a student violin; no surprises. It does still sound a little woody on the G, especially higher up; (it was worse with the regulars, the lights were a Godsend for it) but nothing outrageous. This one is different. It seems more like a caged animal. Is that a good thing? I would think so. Who wants a plane Jane? The sound is much more complex, and both darker, and more brilliant.
I have Warchal Brilliants on it; maybe they are. I put Karneols on first, and the G seemed too flabby. Moving the soundpost in where it belongs (I just popped it in because I was anxious to string it up, and it was about a MM too long) helped a bit, and I was going to decide between the two; but the E loop on the Karneols broke. My choice was easy.
I have a thing for breaking the little piece that hangs down in the top cut out of a bridge. I have no idea what it is called, but for some reason I have broken 3 of them off! I've only cut six! What gives! I take the pragmatic approach, and turn it into a heart and call it good. Now don't get me started on bridge blanks. Why do they give you 8 mm or more on the top, but there is barely enough to sneak up on the bottom fitting so the inside foot is still there. This one barely made it, and I didn't have another. Come on guys are you kidding me? Why is the bottom cut flat instead of with an arch? I haven't seen any flat top violins. It just doesn't make any sense. Are there any brands that have a decent amount of stock on the feet? I should buy a bunch so I have them around. How about ones with a reinforced thingy that hangs down in the center cut out? No?
All in all, at least it is the best I've done. I need to find out how to make better scrolls. I've never really looked at one in person; I mean really examined it. And I don't have any around; except mine! I get the basics done, but something is missing. What is it?
The sound seems good. I don't play, I really should learn, at least a little. I can make lots of noise, and I get a feel for the instrument that way. The other Montagnana I have strung up with Dominant lights. It has a reliable, clear, simple sound. To me it sounds like a student violin; no surprises. It does still sound a little woody on the G, especially higher up; (it was worse with the regulars, the lights were a Godsend for it) but nothing outrageous. This one is different. It seems more like a caged animal. Is that a good thing? I would think so. Who wants a plane Jane? The sound is much more complex, and both darker, and more brilliant.
I have Warchal Brilliants on it; maybe they are. I put Karneols on first, and the G seemed too flabby. Moving the soundpost in where it belongs (I just popped it in because I was anxious to string it up, and it was about a MM too long) helped a bit, and I was going to decide between the two; but the E loop on the Karneols broke. My choice was easy.
I have a thing for breaking the little piece that hangs down in the top cut out of a bridge. I have no idea what it is called, but for some reason I have broken 3 of them off! I've only cut six! What gives! I take the pragmatic approach, and turn it into a heart and call it good. Now don't get me started on bridge blanks. Why do they give you 8 mm or more on the top, but there is barely enough to sneak up on the bottom fitting so the inside foot is still there. This one barely made it, and I didn't have another. Come on guys are you kidding me? Why is the bottom cut flat instead of with an arch? I haven't seen any flat top violins. It just doesn't make any sense. Are there any brands that have a decent amount of stock on the feet? I should buy a bunch so I have them around. How about ones with a reinforced thingy that hangs down in the center cut out? No?
All in all, at least it is the best I've done. I need to find out how to make better scrolls. I've never really looked at one in person; I mean really examined it. And I don't have any around; except mine! I get the basics done, but something is missing. What is it?
When it comes to playing the violin Ken you have to remember that you're only as good as you practice. You made pretty good time finishing this one up. For scroll making I tried making sense of Heron-Allens neck diagrams, lettering, numbers etc. Seemed do-able on paper copying from a book but if you really need a lesson on scrolls check out Jordan Sanquist violin scrolls. There will be different instruments presented for your viewing including close ups and measurements of some pretty cool looking violins and a viola or two. Click on the scroll pictures to enlarge them and study the craftsmanship. Then click to the next image. A few are unbelievable works of art. I"d sit and study them for several hours some days just mostly because I couldn't believe how a few of them were perfectly made.
ReplyDeleteWow, thanks for the tip. What a great resouce. I will spend some time there. Something about the way this one looks after varnishing just isn't right. It looked better (crisper?) in the white. I don't know what would cause that. I bookmarked that site. Now I have 641 bookmarked pages. Yikes. I'm guessing seeing a buch in person next weekend will help a lot too.
ReplyDeleteKen
About the light area in the upper photo- From my past experiences, which are minimal, that seems to be caused by a material/ingredient compatibility issue. Could be a contaminate in the wood that worked its way through the ground. I would mix up a little oil and color and dab the spot with a finger- just tamp it until it's right without hitting any darker areas. Let dry and add more if needed. Then a clear layer or 2 of oil to finish. I'm assuming you used oil originally, right?
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