That is what I used for this one. It would have worked if the purfling was 2.5-3 mm tall, and if my platform was flat; but it wasn't, and the purfling is only 1.8 mm. After fixing it up, I have come up with some alterations to the method if you are making a model with thin edges. Here is the plan:
What this does is make the platform lower, while keeping the edge at about 4.5 or so. Here is what I was dealing with:
And this is how it ends up. I still need a little work on the edges, but it looks much better than it did.
Is the new plan for the c-bouts only or is that for the entire perimeter of plate?
ReplyDeleteThe entire perimeter. The upper and lower bouts are very thin on the edge of the model. The thick enter area makes gives the plate stiffness. The back must be quite light wood, it is only 101 grams.
ReplyDeleteSo you just rest the purfling trench cutter/marker on a rounded over edge or round the edge afterwards?
ReplyDeleteWhen I mark them initially they are tacked on the ribs when I file them to get the outlines smooth. My marker rests on both plates and is very stable. I take them off for thinning and tuning. I find the most important thing is to have a fairly flat area where the groove actually goes. That makes it easier to see how deep the groove actually is
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