This time was no different.
My initial problem was that my Ryoba is way, way, way, to dull. It seems like it never did have the proper heat treatment. It didn't have the nice blue edge on it. The saw I used to use, a single edge, Japanese Kataha Noko Giri, called a Z ripping saw that has been relegated to trimming trees a couple years ago, and is ready to be tossed. It worked pretty good, but I bought the replacement blade, thinking it fit the handle I had, but it didn't, so I made up a handle for it, that worked, but wasn't great. So I started with the Ryoba anyway.
I tried to set the kerf wider (that always seems to be the thing that goes on these blades first) with a hammer and a chunk of metal. The teeth bent and didn't break, another clue the heat treat wasn't right. Then I filed it sharp. I went around the outside, so it would cut square, insy and outsy bulges are the hallmark of some of my other cuts, and then started cutting. To say it didn't work would be generous.
I wanted a good sharp sharp Z ripping saw. Can only get them by mail. Even the closest Woodcraft store is over 40 miles away, and they have a limited line of Japanese saws (although I haven't been in one since they bought out Japan Woodworker). We went ot the local (still 15 miles away Lowes and I bought a cheap hand saw. It's not a rip saw, they didn't even sell such a thing, but has a combo blade sharpened to cut forwards and backwards. I don't know about that. It seemed to cut best going forward. At least the teeth were hard and sharp. In an hour I finished up the one I was hacking on, Two hours later the other was done.
The biggest problem with the saw is it's width. The Z ripping saw has a .03" kerf. The Stanley measures .072 over the teeth. With the bouncing it does, it cuts at least .09" wide. That's 3 times the amount of wood to cut. That's 3 times the effort. That's 3 times the time. At least. The new saw is 15" long instead of 10" which is the only plus it has. Cutting the back is the hardest thing to do. I could have left it alone, but then I'd have to get the stock off by carving, or planing. At least the cut is done.
Anyone out there with a rip saw recommendation? Sure a band saw would work, but any hand saws that really get the job done?
Find 2 old Disston hand saws. 10-11 teeth per inch on one and 8 teeth per inch for the other. Go ahead and level, sharpen then reset both saws if they look ancient. After starting a kerf and you find it goes one way or the other, use a stone to knock down the side a little to straighten the cut. Make sure they are marked Disston before you buy.
ReplyDeletethen.... cut both saw blades to a length of 18 1/2 -19 inches. Round the top edge of blade after cutting to length. Ribs- scrape the sides down to 1mm or less. Soak ribs overnight in a microwavable container. Make a c bout bending form, (your aluminum one might work) and a bending form for the upper and lower rib wood from a piece of 2x6. Use 4 pieces of that aluminum looking thermal 2" tape for a bending strap. Just peel and stick together, then cut to width. Clamp the forms in a vice so both hands can be used to bend the ribs after microwaving them for 5-6 minutes at least. Just use enough water to cover the wood when microwaving. I used dowels and asked for rubberbands from the mailman to secure the heated wood to the form.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the reply. I just saw this today. My Dad passed away on the 14th and we just had the funeral yesterday. So do you use the 10 tooth one for maple and the other for spruce? Or which ever one works best? Then it is pretty much cold bending, but almost steam bending. I've never tried that. Do you bend it little by little, or will it usually go where you want it, and then you have to clamp the rib in to keep it there?
ReplyDeleteWell' I just stumbled over a reply I left you some 5 months ago. About the above mentioned saws- If I'm not mistaken, the saw with the finer teeth were used for maple and the 8 tooth was for spruce. If I would of had minimum material with the spruce I would of used the finer toothed saw. It gives a better cut too. If you haven't tried yet, as soon as the microwave is done the wood will be steaming. I believe every fiber is softened by the heat vs most of the fibers from other heat sources. Is it better in the long run? I know it's less time consuming, though. The bending form{s} must be the same as the violin mold for this type of work. As soon as you're ready, grab a rib, bending strap and a dowel and lay the rib first, then the strap and dowel and secure. I used rubber bands. Next bend the rib all around and secure at the end. After about 45 min. or so you could remove the rib and put it around the mold and then do another. If you have tried this since April then I've done nothing except remind myself of the aforementioned procedure. Thanks Ken.
ReplyDeleteI did try parts of the rib bending idea, and it worked great. I soaked them overnight, and nuked them, for a few minutes, and then just bent them in place right on the mould. Once in place with the clamp that fits the curve, a little neat seemed to set the wood.
ReplyDeleteI also picked up a couple saws at a garage sale; both Disston's. They'll need some sharpening, the finer one especially, someone really used that one, but since I don't have anything to saw right now, they are just hanging on the wall.
Thanks for the advice, Ken