Wrong way to make a fixture

Well the fingerboard holder didn't work. It may have worked if I made it out of maple, and not spruce! The soft wood just squishes and is useless. So I just did it the old way. Rough it out with a 9" plane, then get the 42mm radius set with a wooden plane I made up. I finish it up with my favorite scraper, a plane blade, and the blade out of the wooden plane. I could probably keep the blade in the wooden plane, but it came loose, so I left it out. I'm a scraper guy. Some are file guys, plane guys, sandpaper guys. I'm a scraper guy. The blank is still big. I ran into an aberration in this blank. Not as bad as the last blank I scrapped, but annoying. Most of it may disappear, but some will have to be hidden.
I have been playing around trigging out different violin sting angles and neck sets. See, math is fun! It started after my Ole Bull fingerboard moved down, and the belly moved up. Turns out the dryer vent was loose, and the instrument was absorbing the excess moisture. People on maestronet.com were suggesting some things and some said new instruments move. The only one I've seen move is the Montagnana with the outrageous arch. It bulged up some in the upper and lower bouts. Some said they set the fingerboard projection higher, say 27mm, in anticipation that it will drop after being strung up for a while. So I did some calculations and came up with this:




On a baroque Amati, they would have a straight neck, put whatever bridge height they felt proper, and fabricate a fingerboard to fit underneath. Later, they started morising the neck and tipping it back. I wonder if they did it to make fingerboard replacements easier, and then found players liked the thinner angled neck. Anyway, the change didn't really change the string angle much. The models arch height, length and stop makes more of a difference, and then it still is not that much. The included angles run between 157 to 159 degrees. The modern instruments have constraints built into the formula so each projection (marked elev) will only give a small range of string angle/neck angle that will give the proper (6-6.5mm) neck step. The shorter instrument would be a Bergonzi or Guadagnini and the Maggini is actually a model SMALLER than the original. One thing of note; the baroque instrument would have about the same string angle, but with the shorter neck they would also have a shorter string length(except the Maggini). The tension on the strings would be lighter, even though the string angles are the same as modern instruments. I believe this is all correct, but I could be wrong. Let me know. Don't know how I got this blue and underlined!