Back up a little

Most violin makers begin with the mold and ribcage. I showed my mold before, but didn't explain how it works. Here is my PG mold and the plates I've already made to fit it. The plywood outline of the mold is made so that when the ribs are bent around them they will be 2.5mm - 3mm inside the desired outline. The blocks are the gluing points for the ribs, and the neck, and the support for the end pin. The aluminum template is the outline showing the corner and end block shape. There are two reamed holes in the mold that line up with the reamed holes in the template. That is how the mold is made, so it is somewhat symmetrical. It also allows the maker to mark out the corner and end blocks. Without a template the corners would be hard to make anywheres near the way the design called for. I go around the template, re-positioning it 4 times to get the blocks marked out. Then I use a gouge, chisel and file to get the blocks shaped to both sides of the line. That way the ribs have a decent chance of being square. Now I'm ready to glue the c-bouts on. First I'll have to bend them.
The belly wood on this one has a lot of bear claw on it, but the photo doesn't bring it out. Hopefully my varnish will make it stand out. The back still needs the purfling put in and the edge finished. I tap the plates to get a rough idea of the stiffness. Since I've never flexed a "real" violin back or belly I have no idea what it should be. Not being taught by anyone I don't even have the luxury of the teacher telling me, "still too stiff". There is a formula to come up with a "stiffness number". It is frequency squared time the weight in grams. The frequency is the ring mode, or mode 5 of the plate. I measure that by placing the plate on a piece of foam and tapping in the middle. The belly on this one is 330hertz with the f holes cut and the bass bar in. With a weight of 61g the number is 6.6. The back is 120g, but will probably lose some. With a frequency of 311hertz the number is 11.6. According to the plate stiffness figures on the platetuning.org website the back is about right, but the belly is too wimpy, should be closer to 8. It doesn't seem whimpy, will have to see about that when it is glued together. Any thoughts out there on these numbers, or on this method? Any help or information would be appreciated.