Follow along as I try to make a violin that will change me from a wannabe violin maker, making VSO's (violin shaped objects), to a real violin maker. Some of my methods are unorthodox, and I welcome all comments or questions.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
I have the first turn of the scroll almost done. I saw the sides of the neck out and chisel out the pegbox and scroll after marking it to depth with a saw. This is the first time I used a flat chisel. Usually I use a 3/4" wide Flexcut gouge that I think was labeled as a #3, but it seems flatter than that. It is a palm tool, but I never hold in like that. Once I smooth this turn up more I'll cut around the rest of it to the eye. This is the part that it would be nice to have a nice scroll sitting right on the bench next to you. I never know where to cut the turns down to. You can't say Xmm up from the first turn, because that would depend on how much you undercut it, and what if you undercut it more later? Some of the posters will give dimensions to the top and the bottom of the second turn. Then you have to work off the eye because it is the only flat dimension there. This maple is very easy to carve. Easier than the sycamore I did the last one with, that had nasty grain switches. Even where the flame is heavy it cuts nice, and using the chisel like a scraper works like a charm with no tear out. Maybe I'm just getting the tools sharper? I did cheat and used the drill press at work to rough out the peg holes to 3/16" diameter. Usually I use a hand drill with the bevel gears and a small hand chuck. Sometimes my eyes get the holes straight and sometimes they don't! I only trust myself with a 1/8" drill by hand, and then open them up as needed to make them straight.
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