Follow along as I try to make a violin that will change me from a wannabe violin maker, making VSO's (violin shaped objects), to a real violin maker. Some of my methods are unorthodox, and I welcome all comments or questions.
Monday, May 31, 2010
"New" tool works pretty good
After using my 1" incannel gouge on the inside of the back I decided to try it on the outside. I usually use a roughing plane, but this gouge works really nice on the maple. Slices it up. Going from the center seam to the edge it cuts just with hand pressure, no need for a hammer. Old tool, new use.
This is how I rough the outside. I rough the edges to 5-6mm. Then I start whittling the center down. At this point I am still a little high near the ends, and quite a bit too thick in the middle, you can tell by how big the dots are in the middle. The point will only go so far in on the maple, it will go further on the spruce. If you push too hard on it you will make little dimples on the inside. I'm not worried about those because the inside is not quite finished. Real close, but not perfect yet. I move the thickness marker from 4mm at the lower bout up to 6mm in the c bout, in .5mm steps. This should leave it 1.5 too thick, and after smoothing up still about 1mm or so thick. When I get it to that point I'll stop for now.
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