Friday, March 20, 2015

Oil for Varnish

I've been playing with oil for making some varnish. I can buy good varnish, but once you have tried to make it, and had some minor success; the process is stuck in you, an you want to try it again to see if you can do better. The same is true about violin making. The same is true about every aspect of your life; even the spiritual. I've been washing the oil, and then clarifying it in a pan until the water is all out. It gets it darker, but it is still clear. I'm trying to get it to go redder, buy washing it in different things. The oil is just boiled linseed oil from Home Depot. That is the jar on the right. As you can see it isn't the pristine stuff that you would put on a salad! It looks fairly nasty.


With some backlighting it show some promise though.


They are arrainged from light to dark on the left. When I look at them in the light, there is a difference in color, and darkness. The photos don't show so much.


The lightest.


The next lightest.


The second darkest.


The darkest one.

I have some raw pine resin, and fir resin on order, so once that stuff comes in I can cook some varnish up. I never know exactly how to measure the parts. How is the oil I have now measured? It isn't quite pristine; I'm sure it has less volume than it started at. Same with the resin. The hard resins are easy to weigh, but how much water is still in raw gum. I'll try the Keith Hill method for the raw gum.

Now, here is the plain oil out of the can washed with water, and sat overnight. The oil itself seems to be hydroscopic, it doesn't act like the nice oil on Tad Spurgeons site.


So, I have to cook it in a pan, and boil out the water. It made a lot of yellow foam, and bubbled like crazy for a while. I but it on the heat until it bubbles, then swirl the pan off the heat until the bubbles stop. They were pretty much ending and I took a measurement of the temperature. 260 degrees F. It looks like this:


With back lighting it is the lightest of all, but still redder than it was before.


I want a dark varnish in as small a thickness as possible. We will see.

6 comments:

  1. Ken, what is the deal with oil from the can and water? What's the reason for the water?

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  2. They wash oil to get rid of impurities. The Tad Spurgeon site has a good explaination. Apparently this oil is either already washed, or the processes they use to make it dry faster holds the oil together. Maybe it is really good stuff? The oils shown being washed usually get a buch of gunk at the bottom, I didn't get that. They usually end up lighter and clearer, and the water separates out. Mine didn't do that either. Maybe the oil is already processed correctly, and doesn't need anything to get it ready. It is supposed to be used as a varnish, or sealer on its own.

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  3. Can you formulate? the entire varnish system so that in a period of 2 1/2 months you can put a bridge on it? I guess you can say I'm trying to give you a hint without hindering your progress.

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    1. I'm trying to get a very thin color coat so drying should be very fast. Not as thin as an emulsion, or a spirit varnish maybe; but I don't want a spirit varnish. I do have a stable emulsion, (looks just like a spirit varnish in the jar, but has oil in it) but I haven't tried layering it.

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  4. I read through Mr. Spurgeon's site some. I couldn't find out what his "special" oil is. It couldn't be walnut but life would be easier if it was. I realize, my opinion Ken, is that we don't need to be that good for violin, but there is a higher power that has to do with what we do finishing wise.

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  5. He doesn't have a special oil. He just cleans them. Walnut oil would work just fine. It is probably easy to find a good walnut oil that will dry. I am somewhat skeptical on the food grade linseed oils because Joe Robson (Mr. Varnish) said one time that some of the linseed oils made for food are different from the ones that were traditionally grown for drying oils.

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